Friday, April 24, 2026

 

Nambi's moment of reckoning.

The Oracle of Dharmarajapuram

Every village has one. That one person to whom all roads lead when things go wrong — when a horoscope needs reading, a land deed needs interpreting, a school admission needs navigating, or a neighbour needs cursing in legally defensible language. In Dharmarajapuram, that person was Gopala Nambi.

Nambi was the village's only brahmin — a distinction that carried with it not merely caste identity, but an entire ecosystem of projected expertise. The villagers, for reasons best known to them, credited him with mastery over the Vedas and Shastras, fluency in finance and law, deep knowledge of astrology, and sound judgment in matters of pedagogy. He was, in every sense, a one-man Google — except he actually gave correct answers.

During the week, Nambi attended to his various callings in the city, returning to his village home every weekend, accompanied by his trusted lady cook Kamakshi and his ever-reliable errand boy, Kancha Bhatta. Together, this modest trinity kept the Nambi household running with quiet efficiency — Kamakshi in the kitchen, Kancha at the gate, and Nambi himself dispensing wisdom from the verandah to whoever cared to seek it.

His village home was a handsome bungalow, surrounded by trees he had planted with care over the years — neem, palm, ashoka and berry — standing like a green retinue around the home of their learned master.

Life was, on most weekends, agreeable.

Except in January.


The Annual Torment

Every winter, the village folk of Dharmarajapuram celebrated the Ayyappa Festival with great fervour at the local Vinayaka Temple — which stood, by some cruel geographical joke, directly opposite Gopala Nambi's home. The festival was a precursor to the long and arduous pilgrimage to Sabarimala in Kerala, and its centrepiece was the ritual firewalk — devotees crossing a bed of glowing red embers as an act of devotion and sacrifice.

For this purpose, the villagers collected vast quantities of dry firewood — neem branches, mahogany, peepal, and various other kinds — and deposited them in a large pile, across the road right opposite to Nambi's gate. The logs would be set ablaze early in the morning, burning through the day until they reduced to a perfect carpet of embers by evening, ready for the firewalkers.

It was a sacred tradition. It was a deeply moving spectacle of faith. And it was, for Gopala Nambi, an annual nightmare.

Every year, the heat from the bonfire singed his beloved trees — the neem, the ashoka, the berry — burnt in half like offerings nobody had asked them to make. Worse, the electrical supply wires that ran overhead from the temple to his home passed directly above the fire. The previous year, the insulation on the wires had partially melted from the heat. Nambi had watched this with the quiet horror of a man who understands both electrical resistance and the absence of common sense.



He had complained. He had reasoned. He had petitioned.

This year, he went one step further and filed a formal complaint at the Kavanoor police station, requesting either a cancellation of the event or — more reasonably — its relocation to the open ground near the paddy wetlands on the other side of the village road, safely away from his home and its overhead wiring.

The police heard him out with admirable patience and then told him, with equal admirable brevity, to let it go. It was once a year. These things happen. Move on.

Nambi returned home, outwardly composed, inwardly volcanic.




The Morning of the Reckoning

It was early January. The kind of January morning that Dharmarajapuram does particularly well — thick fog rolling in from the fields, swallowing the morning sun whole, leaving the neem trees and palm fronds as ghostly silhouettes in the mist. The village had woken up to the sounds of the temple mike making periodic announcements on the progress of the Ayyappa pooja, and the firewood outside Nambi's gate had been lit at dawn, beginning its slow, all-day transformation into the evening's sacred embers.

Nambi had arrived for the weekend with Kamakshi and Kancha, and had clearly arrived with a plan.

He bathed early that morning — the first bath. He skipped his morning meal entirely, which for a brahmin of Nambi's constitution and routine was itself a declaration of war. Around noon, he bathed again — the second bath, the ritual bath — and emerged dressed in his panchagajam, the traditional white cotton garment of ceremonial significance, his body smeared from forehead to forearm in sacred ash, vibhuti, applied with the thoroughness of a man who means business.

He walked into his pooja room, sat before his deities, and began.

First, the Sankalpam — the formal declaration of intent, addressed to the cosmos, specifying the date, the place, the purpose, and the name of the devotee. The cosmos was now on notice.

Then the morning anushtanam — the brahmin's ancient propitiation to the divine forces in all eight directions, accompanied by the Gayatri Mantra, recited with the precision of a man who has done this more than a thousand times and intends to do it a thousand more.

And then — the main event.

The Durga Sooktham.

Nambi began the recitation, his voice rising steadily in the small pooja room, the camphor smoke curling upward past the deity portraits, his words competing with the temple mike outside that was, at this very moment, probably announcing the progress of the very pooja Nambi was attempting to spiritually counter-programme.

He recited it once. Twice. Ten times. Twenty.

Forty-eight times.

Forty-eight recitations of the Durga Sooktham, each one a petition to the Goddess, each one a little louder, a little more urgent, a little more invested — until the crescendo, the 48th recitation, landed like a thunderclap in that small room, followed by the lighting of a great bundle of camphor that sent its fragrance billowing through every corner of the bungalow.

Kamakshi, presumably in the kitchen, was either deeply moved or deeply worried. Kancha Bhatta, presumably at the gate, was alarmed. He knew his master had embarked on something that could be dreaded.


The Two-Temple March

What happened next is the sort of thing that villages remember for generations.

Nambi emerged from his pooja room, walked through his home, and opened the large iron gate to the street. Outside, the bonfire burned steadily. The morning fog had thinned. The temple mike blared. The village went about its festival business.

And Gopala Nambi — barefoot, panchagajam-clad, Vibhuti-smeared, radiating the particular energy of a man who has recited the Durga Sooktham forty-eight times on an empty stomach — walked straight towards the burning embers.

He crouched by the fire and, with his right palm, scooped up a fistful of hot sand and ash from the ground near the embers. He then turned and walked directly into the Vinayaka Temple across the road — the very temple hosting the Ayyappa festival he had been opposing — performed a Sankalpam before the deity, and recited the Durga Sooktham one more time. The 49th.

He came out of the temple. Head high. Fist still clutching the hot sand and ash. Eyes carrying an expression that, by all accounts, no sane person in the village would have wished to look back into.

He then turned away from his home — away from the festival, away from the fire — and walked briskly down the village road in the opposite direction, towards Kavanoor, towards the state highway, and across it, to the Ramar Temple some 400 meters away.

The village watched.

At the Ramar Temple, the honorary caretaker, Mani was attending to some repair work on the pathway. He looked up, saw Gopala Nambi approaching in full ceremonial regalia, clutching something in his right fist, wearing the expression of a man carrying a divine warrant — and wisely chose to give way and say absolutely nothing.

Nambi entered the sanctum sanctorum and, in the loudest and most beseeching voice he could summon, recited the Durga Sooktham one final time. The 50th. This time, it sounded like an entreaty of a devotee in deep agony, trying to invoke the cosmic powers to manifest itself in the festival before dusk. His voice filling the small temple, the sound carrying out through the doorway, across the highway, perhaps all the way back to the bonfire.

He emerged from the Ramar Temple with the same splendour with which he had arrived.

He then did something that elevated the entire episode from memorable to legendary — he performed a complete circumambulation of the village periphery. The entire village. Walking its boundary like a priest consecrating sacred ground, like a brahmin who has decided that if the Goddess needs a GPS coordinate for where to send the divine intervention, he will personally mark the perimeter.

The village folk, spotting him coming from the Kavanoor direction, watched in collective silence. Nobody knew quite what to make of it. Nobody dared ask.


The Fist of Fury

Nambi arrived back at the festival site. The bonfire crackled. The embers glowed. The afternoon had worn on, and the evening firewalk was still hours away.

He walked straight to the burning logs of wood and, with the full force of whatever combination of devotion, chemistry and righteous fury had been building since dawn — flung the fistful of hot sand and ash directly into the fire. One could imagine a Mohinder taking only a couple of steps to deliver a deadly medium pacer to the Dujons and Holdings during the summer of 1983.

What happened next surprised everyone present, including Nambi himself.

The sand dissolved into the fire as expected. But not before releasing a brownish-red ball of flame that leapt upward from the embers, blazed briefly in the air above the woodfire, and was consumed by the atmosphere — a small, spectacular, entirely unrepeatable chemical event witnessed by the entire village gathering.

A gasp went through the crowd.

Nambi stared at it.

And then — because Nambi, a financial strategist by profession, was, above all things, a man who believed his schooling always stood him in good stead— his mind immediately began running through his school-level chemistry, trying to recall what compounds in soil or ash might produce a brownish-red oxidizing flame. Potassium? Some iron oxide compound. Had there been anything unusual in the wood ash?

The Goddess Durga, one suspects, was watching this with some amusement.


The Gates of Conflict

Nambi turned, walked to his home, let himself in through the smaller paired iron wicket gate, and closed it behind him.

The village, which had just watched a sacred-ash-smeared brahmin perform a two-temple pilgrimage, circumambulate the entire village, and apparently cause a mysterious flame to erupt from a bonfire, arrived collectively at one conclusion: something had been done. Something had been invoked. And someone was going to pay.

The crowd surged towards Nambi's eight-foot red iron gates, pushing, threatening, demanding entry. The smell of camphor and ash still hung in the air. Panic had replaced awe.

Nambi, hearing the commotion, came back to the gate. Kamakshi and Kancha Bhatta rushed to his side, a cook and an errand boy forming a protective flank around their employer with the loyalty of people who understood exactly what kind of man they served.

Nambi, composure intact, offered a reasonable proposition: depute two representatives, come in civilly, and let us talk.

The mob sent in twenty!

In the ensuing chaos, a hooligan with a stick brought it down hard on Nambi's right shoulder. Another beat up Kancha Bhatta — who had done nothing more than open the wicket gate as instructed.

It was left to the village elders to intervene. And to their credit, they did — reminding the mob, with some urgency, that the man they were assaulting had donated generously to the very temples they celebrated, had personally established a trust that funded the Ramar Temple's renovation and consecration, and had made the children of these very families beneficiaries of educational support through that same trust.



The mob, confronted with this rather inconvenient curriculum vitae, began to disperse.

But not before the chief festival organizer — a tall, dark man who had been at loggerheads with Nambi on this matter for years — delivered his parting shot at the gate: "If anything happens to anyone during the fire walk this evening, you will not return to the city alive."

Nambi, slightly hurt on his right shoulder, deeply disturbed and profoundly hungry, went upstairs to his room. He changed out of his panchagajam. He declined the food Kamakshi brought him. He drank some water, lay down, and went to sleep — the sleep of a man who had done everything in his power and was now leaving the rest to forces beyond his comprehension or control.


The Anti-Climax That Wasn't

That evening, as the Ayyappa pooja concluded and the embers settled into their final glow, it was time for the fire walk.

Normally, the event drew around a hundred devotees willing to cross the embers — a joyous, chaotic, spiritually charged spectacle that wound on well past eleven at night.

This year, twelve people walked.

Twelve!

The rest, it emerged, were simply too frightened. The brahmin's morning ritual had lodged itself in the village imagination with a thoroughness that no amount of festival drumming could dislodge. What had he done? What had he invoked? What was in that sand? What was that brownish-red flame?

Nobody wanted to be the person who found out the hard way.

The organizers hurried through every remaining step of the ceremony as though the ground beneath them might open up at any moment. The appointed pujari rushed his rituals. The firewalk was completed in record time.

By seven in the evening, the festival was over. Four hours ahead of schedule. Extinguished — if not by rain or wind — then by the collective weight of superstitious caution!

Gopala Nambi, sleeping upstairs, missed the whole thing.


Many Weeks Later

Time passed. The fog lifted. January became February.

One afternoon, Nambi's close aide and associate Mr. Krishnan, who lived a couple of houses away — and who worked at a nearby Hindu religious mission and had a finger on the pulse of Dharmarajapuram's social weather — came to visit.

He sat with Nambi and spoke carefully.

The chief festival organiser, he said, had been suffering on multiple fronts. His school-going child and his college-going child had both been involved in an accident, when both had been riding pillion behind a two-wheeled rider. One had a fractured leg. The other, a bandaged arm. The hooligan who had beaten Kancha Bhatta had been picked up by the local police in an unrelated case, produced in court, and remanded to custody.





Krishnan had been watching all of this and had arrived at a firm conclusion: Gopala Nambi's invoked wrath had visited itself upon those who had brought harm to him.

Nambi listened to all of this.

And then — because Nambi was, above all things, a thoughtful man — he simply chose not to react.

Not a word. Not a nod. Not a smile. Nothing.

Perhaps he was weighing the probability of coincidence against the possibility of divine causation. Perhaps he was running another chemistry calculation. Perhaps he understood instinctively that in the economy of village reputation, silence was worth infinitely more than explanation.

Whatever the reason, the village of Dharmarajapuram drew its own conclusions.

And from that January onward, whenever the folk of Dharmarajapuram happened to see Gopala Nambi walking down the village road — in his regular clothes, no panchagajam, no sacred ash, no fistful of curses — they stepped aside with a deference that no police complaint, no legal petition, and no amount of encyclopedic wisdom had ever quite managed to produce.

He had sent them a message; he hadn't intended to.

But then — as any student of the Durga Sooktham will tell you — the Goddess works in her own ways, on her own timeline, and occasionally through the medium of a brahmin who, deep down, was mostly just worried about his trees!


Dharmarajapuram, January. A village, a bonfire, and one man's magnificent, accidental triumph.

Sunday, March 22, 2026

Chronicles of Kancha Bhatta 2 - The Lockdown Tea Trail

 

The lockdown caught Kancha Bhatta in his native village up the hills like a bewildered calf tied to the wrong post. He had come up only for a short visit, to breathe some hill air and gorge on fresh corn, fully expecting to be back in Chennai in time to brew my evening tea and shoo away the boys from my biscuit tin. Instead, the shutters came down on the world. The buses stopped, the border closed, and the Sharda below growled like a tiger in the adjoining forests in Dudhwa. 

Chennai, however, sat stubbornly in his mind: my kitchen, my office, my endless demands for "one strong tea, not that watery mess," and the familiar clatter of vessels he had mastered like a raga. Tea leaves and patience, that was his craft. And now, both were running dangerously low.

He had no money. Not even enough to buy a single cup of the milky roadside tea he secretly despised. But on one cool morning, when the mist still clung to the hills and the village roosters were arguing with the dawn, he slung a thin bag over his shoulder – a spare shirt, a dented steel tumbler, and a small packet of tea leaves (procured from Siliguri) carefully guarded like treasure – and walked out of his native hill sojourn as if he were merely stepping out to buy coriander.

"Arre Kancha, kahan jaa raha hai re?" one of the elders called out from his kirana dukaan.

"Bas, thoda neeche tak jaa raha hoon, chacha, kuch laoon aapke liye?

Dhangadi

A rattling jeep finally emerged from the fog, piled high with sacks and chickens. Kancha stepped into the road and raised his hand with all the confidence of a man who owned the highway.

"Bhaiya, Dhangadi jaa rahe ho?" he asked, peering in.

The driver, a stout man with a tired face, frowned. "Arre, lockdown hai. Kaun uthayega tumko? Paisa hai?"

"Paisa nahi hai," Kancha said cheerfully, "lekin chai banaata hoon zabardast. Ek cup piya, toh zindagi bhar yaad rahega. Abhi yahan banake pila deta hoon, phir Dhangadi tak chhod do."

The helper on the jeep burst out laughing. "Oye masterchef! Chalo, dikhao phir tumhari chai ka jaadoo."

Within minutes, Kancha had borrowed a small aluminium vessel, fetched water from a roadside handpump, and set up a makeshift stove beside the jeep. Tea leaves, a pinch of ginger from the driver's lunch box, and some mysteriously accurate proportions later, steam curled up with a smell that could have convinced even the police barricades to step aside.

"Wah re," the driver said after the first sip, eyes widening. "Aisi chai toh maine bas kahaniyon mein suni thi. Chalo, baith jao. Dhangadi tak tumhara intezaam ho gaya."

And so he rode down to Dhangadi, about 125 miles away, not as a fare-paying passenger, but as the freshly appointed Minister of Tea. To keep the driver engaged, Kancha regaled him with Bollywood stories, off the silver screen, with an air of authenticity that would put ‘Kofi with Karan’ to shame! His fav episode was his chance encounter with Daboo (the only living Kapoor of his generation) at a restaurant on Napean Sea Road. At a pit-stop in Silghadi, both alighted, looking for a snack. Kancha again, brewed some tea from his jugaad kit at a half-open tea shop, making cups for at least about 5 onlookers around.

Driving past Attariya, they reached Dhangadi that was a knot of half-open shops, shuttered hopes and whispered rumours. He had barely stepped off the jeep when the next question stared him in the face: how to cross the great wall of Gauriphanta, across the border onto the state of UP.

Over the Border

Hours later, a forest department jeep rolled in, loaded with supplies. The guard eyed him suspiciously.

"Tum kaun ho? Kahan jaa rahe ho?"

"Sahab, main cook hoon," Kancha said promptly. "Aap logon ke liye khana bana sakta hoon. Lockdown mein sab log thak gaye honge, na? Chai, khichdi, jo bolo bana doonga. Bas Gauriphanta tak chhod dijiye."

The guard looked at his colleagues. The thought of hot chai in the cold green gloom of the forests, was too enticing to resist.

"Chai bana sakta hai?" one of them asked, still not fully believing.

"Abhi bana ke pilaata hoon, sahab," said Kancha, already searching for a corner of the forest rest shed that could impersonate a kitchen.

Ten minutes later, forest rations – moist and long unused sugar, reluctant tea leaves, and dented steel glasses – had been transformed. The guard took one sip, then another.

"Arre bhai," he muttered, "isko toh border tak nahi, Lucknow tak free mein chhodna chahiye."

They didn't go that far, of course, but the jeep growled through Dudhwa with Kancha perched among the sacks, the unofficial camp cook who had bought his passage with masala chai.

"Dekha, sahab?" he said as the jeep bounced over a pothole. "Chai se bada passport duniya mein nahi hai."

The guard smiled in spite of himself. "Bas chup-chaap baith ja. Baagh bhi sun lega toh aa jayega." Humko Lakhimpur tak jaana hai. Tum wahin utar jao. Kancha Bhatta couldn’t have it better and happily grinned at the guard.

Lakhimpur

On the other side of the hills and river, the world flattened into dust and diesel fumes. By the time he reached Lakhimpur, he had already earned two meals by stirring someone's dal and frying someone else's chillies. The station area was full of stranded men with bags larger than their hopes.

A private bus stood there, its destination painted optimistically: "Bangalore – Special Service." Outside, a man with a notebook was shouting names. Migrant workers queued, heads bent, bags clutched.

Kancha wandered close and asked, "Bhaiya, Bangalore ka bus hai kya?"

The man looked him up and down. "Paisa?"

"Seedha paisa nahi hai," Kancha admitted, "lekin main chai, khana, sab banaata hoon. Raste bhar aap logon ke liye chai, upma, simple khichdi – jo milega, use jaadoo se kuch bana doonga. Aapka bhi kaam ho jaayega, mera bhi safar ho jaayega."

A woman standing nearby, with two small children and tired eyes, intervened. "Arre bhaiya, isko chadha lo. Bacho ke liye koi garam cheez bana dega toh acha hi hai."

The man shrugged. "Theek hai. Lekin seat nahi milega, samjha? Raste bhar kaam karna padega."

"Seat se zyada kaam aata hai mujhe," said Kancha. "Chalo, Bangalore!"

For the next six days, the bus was his traveling kitchen. Halting at Lucknow, Rae Bareily, Rewa, Jabalpur, Nagpur, Adilabad, Kurnool and Hyderabad, where migrant workers were dropped off, Kancha stuck to his contractual duties. At dhabas where the bus halted, he slipped into the smoky backrooms, turning leftover rice into lemon rice, plain vegetables into something resembling comfort. For the kids, he made mildly sweetened tea, more milk than leaf, and told them stories of a village where the river grumbled and the hills sulked but always forgave.

On the third evening, near some anonymous junction, one of the men said, "Arre Kancha, ek cup garam chai de na. Thandak haddi tak ghus gayi."

"Bhaiya, meri chai peene ke baad, aapko Bangalore bhi garam lagega," Kancha said. And the bus, for a brief, fragrant moment, became a moving tea stall.

Bangalore

Bangalore arrived finally, not as a grand gateway but as a jumble of flyovers and hoardings. The bus emptied itself into the city, each man dragged away by his own destiny. Kancha, left standing with his small cloth bag and his tea packet, sniffed the air.

"Idhar se Chennai door nahi hai," he told himself. "Bas thoda chai aur thoda kismet chahiye."

He found a lorry bound for Vellore, stacked high with sacks of onions. The driver was a wiry fellow who looked like he trusted no one, not even his steering wheel.

"Anna, Vellore goingu?" Kancha ventured in the only English he knew..

"Pogum," the driver grunted. "Aana paisa?"

"Paisa illa," said Kancha, slipping naturally into the local rhythm, "I meaku tea and sappadu. You take, humko free sawari?

The driver stared at him for a moment. "Tea saaptuttu dhaan drive pannuvaen," he admitted. "Sari, vaa. Onion sack mela ukkandhuko."

Somewhere on the highway, as the lorry huffed up a gentle rise, Kancha balanced a small stove on a wooden plank, boiled water in an old tin can, and brewed tea that cut straight through road fatigue.

"Idhu thaan tea da," the driver said after a sip. "Namma oorla ippadi tea kidaikkave maata."

Kancha grinned, as the lorry rolled toward Vellore.

Chennai..

At Vellore, the lorry dropped him near the highway like a parcel finally delivered. His legs were stiff, his shirt smelled faintly of onions and smoke, and his tea packet was now half its original size.

An ageing Ambassador crawled by, white and weary. Kancha stepped forward.

"Anna, Chennai goingu?" he called out.

An elderly man with a heavy moustache peered out. "Pogum. Aana meter illa, paisa dhaan."

Kancha beseeched, “Paisa illa. I tea maku and givvu. Tum Chennai la poraan!

The old man hesitated, then smiled faintly. "Tea-na enakku weak point. Seri, ukkaru."

At a fuel stop, under the shade of a half-dead tree, Kancha conjured up tea with the last of his precious leaves, and a simple upma out of whatever they could rummage from the Ambassador's emergency grocery bag.

"Idhu veetla saapadra maathiri irukku," the old man said, almost wistfully, as Chennai's outer ring road slowly wrapped itself around them.

In the city, traffic broke them up. From there, it was a ballet of two-wheelers. A delivery boy dropped him a few kilometres closer to Bandikavanoor in exchange for a quick help at a roadside stall – stirring a bubbling pot so the cook could answer his phone.

"Enga side la irukke?" the rider asked.

"Bandikavanoor inside goingu, machan," said Kancha. "my village I go ‘paidal’ from there”

The last stretch from Bandikavanoor he walked, as if the earth itself needed to feel the proof of his return. The fields were quiet, only the occasional bird tracing the evening sky. The familiar line of palm trees appeared like old friends, and then, finally, my village – Dharmarajapuram, sitting calm and mildly amused, as if it had known all along he would come trudging back with dust in his hair and mischief in his eyes.

By the time he reached my gate, the lamp in my courtyard was already lit. I heard the faint scuffle of his feet, the soft rustle of his bag.

He stood there, framed by the doorway, thinner perhaps, darker by a few shades of sun, but entirely himself. Then, with that same irrepressible grin, he announced his arrival in the only way he knew how:

"Tiger Zinda hai."

Of course he was. The tiger that brewed tea instead of roaring, cooked quietly instead of clawing, and walked across a locked-down subcontinent with nothing but a steel tumbler, a packet of tea leaves, and the unquestioning faith that somehow, lap by lap, someone would always be hungry for a hot cup and a simple meal.

Meadows whispered his saga that night, Kancha’s tea steaming tales into eternity. What's next for our tiger? Only the holy Sharda murmurs the secret.

Saturday, September 13, 2025

Dharmarajapuram

 

Dharmarajapuram is a scenic village ensconced amidst lush green paddy fields about a few hundred meters off a state highway from the state metropolitan capital to an adjoining district headquarter.

I first set foot in this village about two decades ago when I identified a piece of land by a village road to build a small house in the rural milieu. I decided to move to the rural countryside and enjoy the bounties of nature that that were on offer here. I could fancy myself enjoying a siesta, after a sumptuous meal, on a jute woven cot under the shade of a neem tree at a corner of a paddy field on a sunny day, with the afternoon breeze blowing in from the coast, about 25 miles away, as the crow flies.

The first few months breezed along and I thoroughly enjoyed the fresh paddy-scented air and the bountiful ground water pumped from the nearby barrage across the Kosasthalai that meanders down to the Bay of Bengal. Life was peaceful, time almost stood still and I often wondered why I hadn’t located this heaven earlier.



All that glitters is not gold. And so, I discovered in phases, over a considerable period of time, that all things nice and beautiful do come at a cost.

A couple of months passed by, when Santhan, a lad of about 20, an electrician, gave up his life, unable to reconcile himself to the consequences of conflicts within his parental family. He had helped me fix up the ceiling fans in my house.

Three more months later, Saraswathi, a young girl, just out of school, jumped down the barrage and ended her life when her family reprimanded her for failing in her public exams. This girl was very talkative and lively. She would prepare tea at her home and serve to the masons working at my place when my house was being built. I was dismayed that downtrodden youth in the village hardly value their life. They would rather teach a lesson to their parents at the cost of sacrificing their own lives.

The third quarter saw yet another life ebb away. This time, it was a young man, about 40 years of age. He was a clerk in the district magistrate court. He was given to drinking and succumbed to sclerosis of the liver.

Before the onset of the next calendar year, Sekhar, a plantain farmer living on the outskirts of the village, consumed a lethal insecticide, unable to bear the trauma resulting from his wife’s elopement with a distant relative. Sekhar was a modest farmer who used to frequent my home to supply plantains and banana at very economical prices. His youngest son, a high school student, died soon after, when a state transport bus accidentally ran over some students right in front of the school due to brake failure, in a neighbouring village. 

And so began a cycle of untimely deaths with unfailing regularity over all these years. Notable among them were Raghu Reddy, my neighbour who sold the land to me to build my house, the plough farmer Velan who used to anchor his pair of bulls (Kona Nandi & Kripa Nandi) in an open land adjacent to my place, Ponvannan, an ever-smiling old man who used to herd his cattle every day in and out of the village, Sanka Reddy, a cable TV agent who died when a truck ran over him on the highway near the village, his wife Ramadevi, who died of a sudden cardiac failure, Sitaram Reddy’s wife who had only a few months before been operated with total knee replacements, Madhavan, the owner of a local petty restaurant, Pugazhenthi, the local village sarpanch, Sudalaimuthu Konar, a small time poultry farmer and many more from the village folk.

The latest to hit the bucket was Anwar Basha, who eked out a living by selling meat during weekends. On other days, he would be busy procuring goats from Chittoor district or doing odd masonry jobs in and around the village. He was only about 53, suffering from many disorders, including diabetes and high blood pressure, brought about from years of alcohol abuse, besides a liberal use of tobacco, both in the form of fumes and its oral consumption.

Surprisingly, covid as a pandemic, hardly claimed a couple of lives in the village during the year 2020-21, when Dharmaraja seemed to have taken a respite here and looked to other directions to claim his victims.

The demography of Dharmarajapuram of about 800 odd people consists of Reddys (the caste Hindus), Konars, (small time farmers who also breed cows), Pillais (who used to maintain land records-but not anymore) and the downtrodden, who live in the outskirts of the village.




A recent conversation with Sitaram Reddy revealed something intriguing and mysterious. His narration ran thus…

 “Many decades ago, most of the land, predominantly leased out for agriculture in and around the village to landless labourers, were owned by a brahmin from Kancheepuram. He hailed from a lineage of priests who conducted daily pooja routines and managed a famous Vishnu temple in Kanchi.

Since most of his lands were not maintained by the landlord himself, but leased out to small farmers, he had failed to keep track of taxes that were payable and accruing on the lands. During the pre-independence era, the Kanakku-Pillais (Patwari/Karnam) were bestowed with authority and responsibility of administering the land, collecting land revenue and the maintenance of land records. This practice paradoxically and unintendedly endowed them with sky-high powers of determining title to land and property, which they often misused to usurp the assets on personal whims and fancies.

The then local Patwari in the village, Kishta Pillai and his brother, Mani Pillai were the administrators of land in and around the village. The former, was the elder of the two who turned out to be  unscrupulous and an usurper of others’ property by giving out the flimsiest of reasons for resorting to punitive actions.

Kishta Pillai sent a notice to the landlord to pay up the taxes due on his property within a stipulated date, the notice being awfully short, giving the landlord only a couple of days to take any action in this regard, failing which the Pillai promised that all such land would be confiscated for consequent auction.

The landlord arrived at the village a week after the notice was received and to his utter shock and dismay, learnt that his land had purportedly been auctioned and that the proceeds of the assets were hardly sufficient to pay up the arrears of land revenue. The Patwari had usurped all his lands by transferring title in the name of his kith and kin.

Awestricken, dumbfounded and frustrated, the brahmin wailed uncontrollably, bewailing his fate, having lost huge property for the flimsiest of error. His anguish gradually turned into frustration and thence to an act of retribution. Seething with anger, and under a state of extreme mental agony and utter stupefaction, he cursed Kishta Pillai and his ilk, throwing up the soil from the wetlands as he left the village, that the Pillai’s family will completely disintegrate and face destruction of family lineage and and that they would no longer be able to enjoy the properties of the usurper and that all such farmers who buy such land from him will also face such destruction.

Kishta Pillai's house now presents a picture of dilapidated ruins unoccupied since ages.

There is hardly any family in the village that does not own hereditary land or property in these surroundings, most of them acquired from the Patwari!




Sunday, April 20, 2025

Chronicles of Kancha Bhatta 1

It was a rather weird acquaintance when I first met Kancha Bhatta on a street near my office. I was on a stroll after a heavy meal with a colleague of mine on the road overlooking a lake in West Mango Town. He was a short wiry boy, fair complexioned with roving eyes. He struck up a conversation by asking me, "Sir, kuch kaam milega? I was nonplussed at this rather unconventional entreaty from a stranger. Not having the heart to ignore him, I asked him, "Kya kar paoge? Kahaan se aaye ho? He retorted, "Aap mujse kya karwana chahte hain? Main kuch bhi karoonga. Chai banane aur pilane se leke saamgri bechne tak, main kuch bhi kar sakta hoon aur taiyyar hoon. Main Mumbai mein bahot saal raha, ab us nagari ko chod chadkar, yahaan aa gaya hoon"

Not willing to trust him at the outset but to afford him an opportunity to re-establish in a place alien to his comfort, I asked him to come over to my office to work as an errand boy. I was, in fact, looking out for one after the previous incumbent called up one fine day to say, "Saar naan nintaen"! (Sir, I have left)

Next morning, he showed up and commenced his work in earnest. He impressed one and all by making fine ginger tea and serving the finely brewed concoction in a most pleasant manner. The finance manager, moving over to my table with a cup in hand quipped, "finally, we have found a great guy for an office boy". 

The same evening Kancha requested me to advance him a thousand rupees to send to his family in a neighbouring country, beyond the Siwalik range. Hesitating initially, I took a chance and obliged, though my colleague cautioned me against it. 

He was missing the next day and there was no way I could contact him. But he did turn up the subsequent day, and the next and everyday thereafter. That was the beginning of a long but tumultuous association of sorts that saw mood swings dime a dozen between him and me.

Having lived and grown up in the streets in Bombay of the nineties, he was well versed in the matters of the world (he calls it "Duniyadari") and knows enough to eke out a solitary living and send a few thousands to his dependents living far away in the hills right across the sacred Sharda.

Bhatta is a living encyclopedia on all matters connected with Bollywood, from Sohrab Modi's Sikandar-e-azam of 1965 to today's Sajid Nadiadwala's Sikandar. This illiterate from the hills can, with an elephant's memory, trace, for instance, the relationship between Ajay Devgn and Shobana Samarth or describe the entire family tree of the Kapoor family meticulously from Shamsa Kapoor (who is this?) to Shehenshah Akbar of Mughal-e-azam. He can even passionately describe the ethos and emotions that actually formed the backdrop of the relationship between Yousuf Khan and Mumtaz Begum Dehlavi behind the shooting of the magnum opus over the longest period a movie was ever shot in Bollywood. He had, in the past, clicked selfies with many Bollywood celebrities from Randhir Kapoor to Sallubhai. If they did not oblige, he was content clicking himself with "Jalsa" and "Aashirwaad" behind him. These formed his "testimonials" if you can call them some.

Recently, he got me to talk to Dharam paaji over his (Bhatta's) mobile. Dharam's personal aide is closely related to Bhatta. I was overwhelmed when the Sholay star blessed me," Jeete raho beta, khoob phoolo phalo"

One fine day, after a year of service at my home and office, Bhatta suddenly announced, "I want to go over to my native village for a month. I am homesick, would like to see my only daughter and wife and return when I get sick of my native"! I bid him goodbye and sent him on a fully paid vacation for a month. He was too impatient to have his tickets booked on train and convinced me that he is comfortable travelling on the wooden sleeper seats in the last bogies of the train to Delhi. He boarded an early morning mail at the central station hiding behind loads and loads of stuff he purchased a day before at the markets abounding near the railway station.

He called me after about 4 days to confirm that he has reached his village after changing several buses, jeeps and vehicles from Kashmere Gate, Banbasa, Attariya and Silghadi. 

A month passed and another two weeks. There were no calls from Bhatta. Then he called up a few more days later and demanded that I send him another month's "pagaar". I refused. He swore that he will never come back and that he was rathet happy boozing away his time at his village.

Yet another month later, he turned up at my door with his "bori and bistar" and announced "Tiger zinda hai"